LOW COST/NO COST ENERGY SAVINGS FOR MAUI

The Fitchburg Model Applied to Maui Nui

Michael J. Duberstein

It’s a given that by far the greatest, fastest and most economical energy savings result from increased conservation measures—what experts label as efficiency steps. No matter how it’s termed, conservation returns large reductions in energy usage—and just a series of no cost/low cost techniques can create huge results.

A demonstration project conducted in autumn 1979, the Fitchburg Action to Save Energy, (FACE) first proved that proposition and led the way for many other similar programs.  I served as on-site consultant for the ACTION agency during the entire project. This is a description of the program, its achievements, and how it was followed up from the book  “Energy Use: The Human Dimension (1984)”:

In 1979, representatives from the federal agency, ACTION, approached leaders of the city of Fitchburg, Massachusetts (population, 39,000) with a proposal to conduct a program of low-cost weatherization of residences in the city. The result was a six-week crash program that used $42,000 in money from two federal agencies and the state energy office, substantial donations of volunteer labor by community members, and in-kind donations of space and materials. About 60 percent of the residents of the city took some energy-conserving action during this period, saving an estimated 14 percent of their energy bills (Fitchburg Office of the Planning Coordinator, 1980; Stanton, 1982).

The list of examples could go on at great length and with great variety. Energy activities have been undertaken by local governments and by grassroots groups. They have been oriented toward conservation, renewable and traditional energy production. They have been designed to benefit homeowners, renters, commercial business, farmers, motorists, and municipal budgets and to improve the general economic climate of an area. Sometimes they have been locally initiated, but sometimes the impetus has come from the outside. Some projects involve expensive technologies, others rely mainly on volunteer labor, and still others are regulatory in nature. Some projects show dramatic results, while others never proceed far enough to produce any net energy benefit. What almost all these efforts have in common, unfortunately, is that they have not been evaluated to measure their effects.

HOW MUCH CAN LOCAL ENERGY ACTION ACCOMPLISH?

 Although thousands of communities have taken action to improve their energy situations, local action has never been a major concern in national energy policy debates. Congress has often expressed support for local energy action, but it has provided much more funding for synthetic fuels development and other national-level efforts than for resources to local groups for their energy activities. And while the Reagan administration’s recent statements on domestic policies have included many positive references to the ability of local institutions to solve problems, the administration has rejected efforts to provide federal resources for local energy action—it took a federal court decision to force release of the resources legally mandated in the Conservation and Solar Energy Bank. Ambivalence also exists in our committee. While there is general sympathy with the idea of popular control of institutions, there is sharp disagreement about whether more local control of energy would actually produce more efficient or flexible energy systems, and there is also disagreement about whether it would be more “popular” than the present system. Since the debate cannot be resolved by facts, we present the arguments in capsule form to highlight the points of disagreement.
 

The Case for Optimism About Local Action

 Local energy action has the potential to reshape the national system of energy supply and use, while simultaneously helping to solve some other national problems. Because many social trends are in the same direction—away from large and distant institutions to solve local problems—there are strong reasons to believe that this potential can eventually be achieved. For example, local energy action makes sense as a way to use regional and local energy resources more efficiently. It can make fuller use of local information and capabilities, including unrealized potentials for increased energy efficiency.

Nonetheless, by 1984 President Reagan had completely eliminated not only the funds, but also any federal involvement in community-level energy projects; nonetheless, those excerpts from the book present an accurate account of what could be replicated throughout Hawai’i.

And remember that these “debates” took place over twenty-five years ago.  By now there can be no serious argument that combing local efforts with no cost/low cost methodology is ineffective.

I’ve put together an attachment to this note listing various no cost/low cost techniques that can work in Hawai’i.  We already have the infrastructure needed for such a project—locations in which to hold seminars, Job Corps and other volunteers able to weatherize homes for low income families unable to purchase weatherstripping and caulking, a local government agency that already gives residents water-saving devices, a cable access program that can produce both news and how-to-do-it shows, etc., etc.

If we set a primary goal of a self-reliant, sustainable Hawai’i, the FACE model becomes a viable tool. It’s no stretch to put together a low cost/no cost conservation project and I’m sure both federal and state funds already are out there for one. For example, just as Fitchburg was a demonstration project, Maui Nui can be the location for one county to show demonstrable results and serve expand as the Hawaiian model after its success and go on from there statewide.

Michael J. Duberstein

SUGGESTED NO COST/LOW COST ENERGY SAVINGS

APPLICABLE FOR HAWAI’I

NO COST

About 15% of an average home energy bill goes to heating water. Switch to cold water washing of laundry in older top loading energy-inefficient washing machines to save energy up to $63 a year and buy detergents formulated for cold water. Wash full loads because clothes washers and dishwashers are most efficient when operated with full loads; if smaller loads are needed, adjust the water level in the washing machine to match the load size, especially when using hot water and always use cold-water rinse.

Lower water heater temperature. It should be set at “warm,” so that a thermometer held under running water reads no more than 130 degrees, and for households with 1 or 2 members, a 115 degrees setting may work fine. To save hot water, take five-minute showers instead of baths. Regularly flush the water heater by draining 1-2 gallons from the bottom of water heater each year to reduce sediment build up.

Clean clothes dryer’s lint trap before each load. Make sure that the outdoor dryer exhaust door closes when dryer is off, verify that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to the inside wall fitting as well as being tightly connected to the dryer. And make sure the dryer vent hose is not kinked or clogged.

Minimize the clothes drying time by using a moisture sensor on dryer if available.

Dry consecutive loads to harvest heat remaining in dryer from the last load.

Remember the “old days” and consider using a “solar-powered” clothes dryer—an old-fashioned clothes line.

During hottest months, keep window coverings closed on the south, east, and west windows; open shades during heating season and close during cooling season.

Activate “sleep” features on computers and office equipment that power down when not in use for a while. Turn off equipment during longer periods of non-use to cut energy costs and improve longevity. Unplug rarely used appliances such as a TV located in the spare bedroom.

Only heat or cool the rooms needed—close vents and doors of unused rooms. Limit heating to 68 degrees and cooling to 78 degrees; reduce heating temperature at night and during unoccupied hours and increase cooling temperature or shut off during unoccupied hours. Keep garage doors down; a warmer garage in colder months and a cooler garage in hotter months will save energy.

In hottest months, use fans whenever possible instead of air conditioning, and ventilate at night this way when practical. Using fans to supplement air conditioning allows raising the thermostat temperature, using less energy. Run ceiling paddle fans on medium, blowing down in hotter months, on low, blowing up in colder months. Fans cost less to use than air conditioning.

Turn off coffee makers when not in use.

Turn off pool pump and/or heater when not needed.

Verify livestock water tank heaters are off when not needed.

Make sure heat tape is off when not needed.

Unplug battery chargers when not needed.

Change or clean filters regularly; keep fin-coils or registers free of dust and remove obstructions. When installing new air filters, make sure they are facing the correct direction. (Look for arrow on side of filter.)

Don’t let water run while shaving or brushing teeth.

Use bath towels at least twice before washing them.

Keep a refrigerator between 34 and 37 degrees Fahrenheit and freezer at 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Use the refrigerator’s anti-sweat feature only if necessary. Switch the refrigerator’s power-saver to “ON,” if available. Be sure to clean the refrigerator coils annually. Ensure gaskets around refrigerator and freezer doors seal tightly. And unplug unused refrigerators or freezers.

Use microwave for cooking when possible and when cooking on the range, use pot lids to help food cook faster. Remember to use the kitchen exhaust fan when cooking and turn it off after cooking.

Let hot food cool before storing it in the refrigerator.

Rinse dirty dishes with cold water before putting them into the dishwasher; only run the dishwasher when fully loaded and use the dry cycle instead of heat-dry cycle to dry dishes.

Use cold water for garbage disposal.

LOW COST

Warm air leaking into the home during the hottest months and out during the colder months wastes money. A handy homeowner can seal up holes to the outside by weatherstripping doors and sealing windows and other gaps along the home’s foundation. A combination of air sealing and adding insulation to attics, basements, and crawlspaces provides tremendous energy savings and increased comfort. Seal leaky ducts with silicone caulk or foil tape. Seal attic bypasses, the pathways where indoor air moves into the attic. Make sure insulation in the attic does not block soffit vents.

A water tank insulation wrap costs about $20 and helps hold the heat inside. Make sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions. Add pre-cut pipe insulation to exposed pipes going into the water heater—it is cheap and easy to install. If starting with a non-insulated tank, resulting energy savings should pay for the improvements in just a few months.

Incandescent light bulbs are outdated; 95% of the energy used goes to heating the bulb, adding unwanted heat to your home in the summer. Replace any light bulb that burns more than one hour per day with its equivalent compact fluorescent bulb or, if that is too huge an initial task, replace the five most used light bulbs with ENERGY STAR® compact fluorescent bulbs to save $60 each year in energy costs. CFL bulbs use two-thirds less energy and last up to 10 times longer. Use dimmers, timers, and motion detectors on indoor and outdoor lighting.

A prime no cost method listed above is to turn heating or cooling down every night and whenever you leave home. Better yet—install an ENERGY STAR® programmable thermostat and save about $100 each year; it adjusts the temperature automatically.

When it’s time to replace the hot water tank, buy the most efficient one possible. Consider a tankless, on-demand system; these won’t work for everyone, so talk to your installer.

For upcountry homes, an ENERGY STAR® qualified furnace. When properly sized and installed, along with sealed ducts and a programmable thermostat, it can save up to 20% on heating bills.

When buying a new air conditioning unit, look for a SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating) of 13 or higher on central systems and the ENERGY STAR® label on room units. In arid climates, evaporative coolers are much more efficient (and less costly) than air conditioning since they also add needed moisture to the air, while air conditioning units further dry the air.

Adding area heaters to warm just occupied rooms keep the rest of the home at more economical temperatures.

Obviously, when purchasing appliances, look for the ENERGY STAR® label.

Clean and tune air conditioner, furnace, and/or boilers on a regular basis.

Insulate, weatherstrip, and caulk the attic hatch.

Apply foam sealant to pipe and wire penetrations.

Block unsealed ceiling soffit, floor joist, and wall cavities with rigid insulation.

Install air-tight recess light fixtures.

Install gaskets behind switch and wall plates.

Repair leaky faucets and install low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators.

FREE RESOURCES

• The Power is in Your Hands www.powerisinyourhands.org. A web site from the Alliance to Save Energy and 20%20 partners with extensive tips and resources to arm consumers with the power to manage their energy bills this winter.

• Free Alliance to Save Energy resources. Obtain a free booklet, Power$mart: The Power is in Your Hands , by calling 1-888-878-3256 or previewing a PDF version. An interactive Home Energy Checkup allows handymen (or women) to troubleshoot their homes’ energy waste while calculating efficient improvements.

• Free Department of Energy resources. Obtain a free booklet, Energy Savers: Tips on Saving Energy and Money at Home, in English or Spanish by calling 1-877-337-3463 or view an online PDF version.

• Free Environmental Protection Agency resources. Obtain a free copy of Guide to Energy-Efficient Cooling and Heating which is available at www.energystar.gov from the heating and cooling product pages or by calling 1-888-STAR-YES (1-888-782-7937). Download the ENERGY STAR Action Guide 5 Steps You Can Take to Reduce Air Pollution.

Free home insulation booklet from North American Insulation Manufactuer’s Association (NAIMA)